Today, the three cacao varieties— Criollo, Forastero, and
Trinitario— often referred to in literature about chocolate have
more conceptual than practical value. Their utility lies more in
demonstrating where cacao has been than where it is because the
names no longer correspond to pure genetic strains. Purity
disappeared many hundreds of years ago as a result of cacao's
penchant for spontaneous cross-pollination. Deliberate hybridization
has also occurred on numerous occasions in the four hundred plus
years of cacao's history as a cash crop. This means that any
relationship, therefore, between variety and flavor is so general
as to be almost useless.
Criollo
Criollo was the predominant cacao of Central and northern
South America, but because of its low productivity and susceptibility
to disease, it now constitutes, as a recognizable variety, on the
order of 0.1% of the world's crop. Porcelana, the best known
example of Criollo, retains the signature mild fruitiness
attributed to the variety, although it is, of course, even
more rare than Criollo as a whole.
Forastero
Forastero, by far the most common of the three varieties,
is believed to be indigenous to the northern Amazon River
basin in what is now Brazil. As a result of its disease
resistance and high productivity, it represents close to
90% of the world crop. It tends to have earthy, relatively
simple flavors with moderate acidity and is known as "bulk"
cacao. Depending on the quality of the bean (pod ripeness
at harvest and the degree of care taken in fermenting and
drying the beans), Forastero can add extremely desirable
elements to a blend or little more than color.
Trinitario
A spontaneous hybrid of Forastero and Criollo that appeared
in Trinidad in the mid-1700's, Trinitario may be the most
difficult to define in terms of flavor due to widely varying
ratios of Forastero and Criollo. Flavor notes range from spicy
to earthy to fruity to highly acidic. Even Trinitario beans
that physically resemble Criollo, suggesting a high percentage
of Criollo genes, often exhibit little of its characteristic
taste profile.
Several countries maintain living gene banks of cacao
strains. The challenge is that no consistent attempt has been
made to create certifiable bean types on a commercial basis.
Thus, when a label states that the cacao variety of a particular
bar of chocolate is Criollo or Trinitario, it is difficult, if
not impossible, to calculate the significance of that claim.
Manufacturers rarely boast about using Forastero cacao, but
most chocolates contain these beans and are quite good in
quality. The ultimate danger in the careless use of labels,
aside from the confusion it creates, is that genetic diversity
may disappear before anyone realizes that its existence is at
risk. When diversity departs, flavor goes with it.
